new release – ¦ ¦- THE SEPTEMBER ISSUE – ¦ ¦- 6/10 – ¦ ¦- review online THU.10.SEP.

The September Issue is a decidedly unusual variant on that ever-popular cinematic staple, the journalism movie – in that there seems to be hardly any conventional journalism involved in the creation of its subect – fashion bible Vogue magazine. It's a breezy, upbeat, glossy-looking documentary that's an obvious must-see for anyone with a particular interest in the subject, and is worth a look even for those who don't know their Jean-Paul Gaultier from their Karl Lagerfeld and only see Vogue when cooling heels in their dentist's waiting-room. Over the course of five months we see how the September 2007 edition of the publication was put together, overseen by the enigmatically imperious Anna Wintour (best known in the wider world for inspiring the softly-spoken termagant played by Meryl Streep in The Devil Wears Prada.)

   Perhaps toning down her usual severity because of the cameras' presence, Wintour actually doesn't come across too badly here – the documentarists clearly aren't assembling any kind of hatchet-job, and The September Issue occasionally has the air of an "authorised" project, more of a celebration than any kind of objective analysis (naysaying voices about Vogue and/or Wintour are thin on the ground, and at no point is the latter's famous nickname "Nuclear Wintour" ever heard.)

   The emphasis is very much on praxis, examining how the key creative and artistic decisions are made – principally the interplay (or lack of) between Wintour and her effective number two on the magazine, creative director Grace Coddington. The pair are both British, both started on American Vogue on the same day, and command enormous respect in the industry. But the similarities end there: a tall, flame-haired lady who looks like she's just emerged from a pre-Raphaelite portrait, the black-clad Coddington treats the cameras as her confidants, and details of her fascinating back-story (she was a top model in the early sixties until a car-crash cut short her career) give the movie moments of intriguing depth and complexity that are never really explored. She comes across as brilliant, vulnerable, funny and sympathetic – though some of those who have had dealings with her in real life have commented upon her frostiness ("frozen Codd", perhaps?) Colourfully attired, petite and with sporting dark glasses beneath her Louise Brooks bob, Wintour only occasionally "opens up", and when she does so one may remember Princess Diana's calculatedly coquettish interview with Martin Bashir. 

   But while Coddington is obviously the star of the show in The September Issue, one suspects this is partly because she's more adept at dealing with the presence of the documentarians – and turning it to her advantage – than her boss. Indeed, it's the weird dynamic between the pair – we can't tell whether they actively dislike each other, or have simply gotten to the point where they don't need to verbally communicate or even have any kind of personal interaction – that proves crucial to the success of both The September Issue and The September Issue.

Neil Young
10th September, 2009

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director : R.J. Cutler
country : USA
year : 2009
run-time : 90m (BBFC)

seen : 1st September, 2009
cinema : The Tyneside Cinema, Newcastle
screening  format : digital
paid : – (press show)

MVP : Grace Coddington
respected second opinion : Paul Schrodt, Slant Magazine